7-Segments
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Make’s description
Slicer: Simplify 3d
@Edit: Uploaded photos of final and painted version
How I printed:
- Multiple objects per print, sequentially (one by one NOT layer by layer).
- Initially I printed layer by layer, but the accurazy with dozens of parts on the print plate is not as good as if you print sequentially. You only need to take care of the print head not crashing into the previously printed objects. If needed, I can upload the project file here. (see video attached)
Layer Height: 0.12mm
Intial Layer Speed 50%
Total Number of Prints for one digit: 10 (including case and manual crank part), due to sequential printing and increased space needed for printhead.
Tipps for mechanic beginners like me:
- I printed all moving parts in different color for easier identification
- I marked the dotted spots on the gears and labeled similar objects on the parts BEFORE removing it from the build plate for easier identification AND synchronisation later on
- Everything where an escutcheon Pin goes through should be checked for loose fit and widened with a 1.2mm drill (red parts for me). Be careful: only the part that move not the one holding the pin (black -> e.g. base plates), otherwise the pin might fall out and everything gets too loose
- Have some 1.2mm decoration wire (https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0751VGRDV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) ready, if a pin is too loose you can use that instead of the pin
- To prevent the pin from falling out, make sure you add so the pin top is pointing upwards
- If you plan to use a motorized version, still print the hand crank parts and insert the crank gear. This way you can make sure it runs smoothly before inserting the motor. When assembling assemble the motor mount but not the motor itself (can be done when everything is running smoothly)
Regarding the spring mechanics:
- Make sure to test the mechanic before assembling, everything has to run very smoothly. The segments have easily fall in place. I did this step by step: Gears -> Spring Mechanic -> 1 Pin for segment -> 2nd and 3d pin -> Make sure it works smoothly for each segment of the display before continueing
Regarding the electronics:
- I suggest modifying the firmware to have the motor run continously before putting everything in place and to have the pcb hooked up externally so you can easily access it.
Synchronisation:
- Synchronise Segment 1 and 2 while building, rotate the gear to a couple of times to make sure it fits
- Synchronise Segment 6 and 7 while building, rotate the gear to a couple of times to make sure it fits
- Put everything together
- Lift Bevel Gear A up (by hand) and rotate the 4 segments (either by motor or manually)
- Synchronise any deviation on those 4 segments
- Synchronise Segment 3 with the previously synchronised 4 segments
- Synchronise Segment 4 by taking out the pin that lifts segment 4 and move up the actuating gear and rotate (try a couple of times by rotating Bevel Gear A (which sould still be lifted up when trying)
- Synchronise segment 5 as you did with 4.
- Rotate Bevel Gear A. Segment 3,4,5 should be perfectly in sync as well as 1/2 and 6/7
- Now the last step is to put down Bevel Gear A in the perfect spot to have the parts sync'ed together.
3D Printer
Ender 5- Raft: No
- Resolution: 0.12 mm
- Temperature: 200 ℃
- Support: No
- Infill: 30 %
- Speed: 60 mm/s
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