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Shapeoko 2 Electronics Enclosure

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3D model description

This enclosure has space for the fan, Arduino UNO and GShield plus a small board to screw in the wires for LImit Switches. Be careful to note the hole positions on your limit switch board or it will be crooked like mine :=} I decided not to change it since it's still functional. The corner anchors were 3D printed, however you may want to use Ø3mm brass standoffs instead because they have threads and would be better if you needed to open it often. The only thing I don't like is you can't get at the reset buttons on the cards. Perhaps someone will improve on my design. :=}

It's mounted to the Shapeoko Plate via the acrylic 1/4" bracket that I threaded for Ø5mm screws. All sides and bracket were assembled using Weld-On. Make sure you dry fit first before applying Weld-On.


This video shows that the stock version of Shapeoko 2 does TECHNICALLY function as advertised. However, it's very unreliable and can be downright dangerous. I had to go through 2 of those 1/4" thick sheets to get the small bracket above to cut properly. It's unreliable behavior wastes time and money on materials. That's what Inventables counts on, money from people having to buy materials. I have since discontinued using the machine until I obtain a TinyG stepper motor controller. The GRBLShield is poorly designed and allows way too much electrical noise to be generated which has caused my Shapeoko 2 to plunge unexpectedly into the waste board and actually breaking my fine engraving bits. This has happened twice when I invoked the Homing Command. The hard limits option doesn't work because of all the electrical interference so there's no protection. If you have to have a Shapeoko, buy the mechanical kit, NEMA 23 motors and TinyG. The full kit has faulty electronics and small motors. Who needs a glorified "Spyrograph" ?

  • 3D file format: STL





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