Designed to be printed in sections and assembled using threads.
Some parts might need glue (super glue).
For decoration of the rivets, I recomend using actual rivets, by knocking out the rivet rod using a tap of a hammer.
Design is hollow and in one picture you can see it being lit from inside. That effect was done using a slim flashlight. This current model is just a display piece, but I will remake it later to house actual saber electronics.
Designed to be printed standing or laying flat down, depending on what part is being printed. Placement is pretty straight forward.
Not much support is needed and when it is, it's not so much where its gonna be visable afterwards.
Use a raft if you feel you must, or a brim.
This particular model doesnt need so thin layer height, but if you want use a lower height.
0,16-0,2mm is what I used on mine.
Some parts like the "center plate" and "trigger" comes in 2 versions. version 2 is a slight upgrade to make the otherwise flat surfaces contact with the round ones better. But you can use version 1 and use glue if you rather want that.
Since this model has threads, be carefull to not overtwist them. If you force the threads together, you can end up with fused parts, impossible to seperate without damaging the model. If its too tight when twisting, sand the threads slightly using 200 grit sandpaper and you can also grease the threads some with normal household oil. IF the aligntment of the parts isnt spot on, try and sand the contact surfaces some to allow the parts to sink in better and thus get the correct alignment.
My name is Erling del Castillo.
Im a 3d printing specialist (hard earned title) who started using CAD software about 10 years ago.
At that time, I was doing CAD because it was fun and in a way I used to make what I consider art.
At that time renderings was the result of the cad work, what I could show to others. 3d printers was heard of, but stil to expensive for non professionals.
About 4 years ago, the printers had dropped in price and it was time to start to take the next step. Now renderings wasnt the only visual media, but now I could also produce physical models and I could interact with them.
I was hooked, this was gonna be my life from that day forward.
I had recently started to get an intrest for cosplay just prior to the 3d printing intrest and to try and combine them two was a given for me.
I started with some 3d printed lightsabers, because I love Star Wars, but I couldn't find it reasonable for me personally to spend 100's of dollars on metal hilts and electronics.
I started posting my creations on Etsy.com and it soon picked up and people really liked my work.
I focus a lot on details and functionality when I design something. Modular design is almost a must, because my creations are meant to be finished by someone else, not me personally.
If I can make that work easier somehow, Im gonna spend extra time and make it so.
So almost all my creations are sectioned, to ease both the printing process and also post printing work, such as sanding, priming and painting.
When "The Last Jedi" came out, things really picked up. I had done the Kylo Ren's iconic crossguard lightsaber replica kit and when I saw the look of Ben Solo's lightsaber, I had it redesigned and printed the day after.
Shortly after that this happened:
and today, with over 125 sold lightsabers and lots lots more printed I've taken the step further.
You will soon find designs to allow YOU to print ligthsabers that can take electronics and actually be more then just shelf decorations.
BUT I'm much more then just a SW replica designer and I intend to post all of my creations here.
AND my creations, you have my blessings to reproduce them (the actual prints, not the STL files) and use them as you want. All I ask in return is that you please mention me as the original creator of the 3d model.
I hope you will like them.
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