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Air Raid Siren - hand crank version 2

Creation quality: 4.7/5 (10 votes)
Evaluation of members on the printability, utility, level of detail, etc.

  • 1 make

Licence CC BY-NC
Publication date 2017-05-03 at 10:02
Design number 10976
3D design format
STL and ZIP Folder details Close
  • SirHa_Gehause1.stl
  • SirHa_Gehause1klein.stl
  • SirHa_Gehause2.stl
  • SirHa_Gehause3.stl
  • SirHa_Gehause4.stl
  • SirHa_GetrRad1.stl
  • SirHa_GetrRad2A.stl
  • SirHa_GetrRad2B.stl
  • SirHa_GetrRad3.stl
  • SirHa_GetrRad4A.stl
  • SirHa_GetrRad4B.stl
  • SirHa_Kurbel1.stl
  • SirHa_Kurbel2.stl
  • SirHa_Kurbel3.stl
  • SirHa_Kurbel4.stl
  • SirHa_Rotor1.stl
  • SirHa_Rotor2.stl
  • SirHa_Rotor3.stl
  • SirHa_Schraube1.stl
  • SirHa_Schraube2.stl
  • SirHa_Schraube3.stl

Learn more about the formats

3D printer file info

3D model description

Remix of my own design. I had a lot of positive response so i desided to redesign it and use metal bearings to avoid friction problems i had with the 100% 3D printed version. Runs much smoother now!

To build this you need these metric [mm] bearings:
(amount x outer diameter / inner diameter / height - link)

1 x 47/25/12 - SKF 6005-2Z
4 x 16/5/5 - SKF 625-2Z
I also tried to design it with 3d printed bearings - But did not work that well. I could get these bearing in an industrial store in my town for around 35 €. The bearing are standard sizes - so you should get them easy.


I uploaded two clips to youtube.

Printing Timelapse:
Assembly and Test:

Slicer note:

I used Simplify3D to slice all parts. If you print it with MakerWare the parts might not fit together - i found out that MakerWare does not care for the nozzle size. Thats why i had some space between every part on my preview version that was featered on thingiverse. I don't now how cura and other slicers work. You should test it with some small parts like GetrRad2A and GetrRad2B before you print bigger parts - they should fit together very tight.

In case you own a Makerbot Replicator but don't have Simplify3D - i added a .zip-archive that contains all sliced .x3g-files ready to print. There is also a README.txt if you have problems getting the bigger parts printed on your R2.


I use basic AutoCAD to draw my 3D stuff because i use it a lot on my work. It took me about 200 hours to design this siren. I added the drawing file if you want to make changes.

3D printing settings

Printer Brand:

MakerBot Replicator 2




Most parts can be printed with standard settings - No Raft, No Support.

Except of following changes:

Gehause3 - change filament color while printing to get the text highlighted
GetrRad2A+B - print it solid, needs to be strong
GetrRad4A+B - print it solid, needs to be strong
Kurbel1 - use brim to prevent warbing
Kurbel2 - print the top layers solid
Rotor3 - print it with high resolution (0.1 mm) and raft to get clean props
Schraube1 - print it 3 times
Schraube2 - print it 6 times
Schraube3 - use brim

If not every part fits after printing you may have to use some abrasive paper.

Parts like the rotor should be sticked together.


Page translated by automatic translation. See the original version.
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