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Air Raid Siren - hand crank version 2

Creation's quality: 4.7/5 (9 votes)
Evaluation of members on the printability, utility, level of detail, etc.

3D model description

Remix of my own design. I had a lot of positive response so i desided to redesign it and use metal bearings to avoid friction problems i had with the 100% 3D printed version. Runs much smoother now!

To build this you need these metric [mm] bearings:
(amount x outer diameter / inner diameter / height - link)

1 x 47/25/12 - SKF 6005-2Z
4 x 16/5/5 - SKF 625-2Z
I also tried to design it with 3d printed bearings - But did not work that well. I could get these bearing in an industrial store in my town for around 35 €. The bearing are standard sizes - so you should get them easy.


I uploaded two clips to youtube.

Printing Timelapse:
Assembly and Test:

Slicer note:

I used Simplify3D to slice all parts. If you print it with MakerWare the parts might not fit together - i found out that MakerWare does not care for the nozzle size. Thats why i had some space between every part on my preview version that was featered on thingiverse. I don't now how cura and other slicers work. You should test it with some small parts like GetrRad2A and GetrRad2B before you print bigger parts - they should fit together very tight.

In case you own a Makerbot Replicator but don't have Simplify3D - i added a .zip-archive that contains all sliced .x3g-files ready to print. There is also a README.txt if you have problems getting the bigger parts printed on your R2.


I use basic AutoCAD to draw my 3D stuff because i use it a lot on my work. It took me about 200 hours to design this siren. I added the drawing file if you want to make changes.

3D printing settings

Printer Brand:

MakerBot Replicator 2




Most parts can be printed with standard settings - No Raft, No Support.

Except of following changes:

Gehause3 - change filament color while printing to get the text highlighted
GetrRad2A+B - print it solid, needs to be strong
GetrRad4A+B - print it solid, needs to be strong
Kurbel1 - use brim to prevent warbing
Kurbel2 - print the top layers solid
Rotor3 - print it with high resolution (0.1 mm) and raft to get clean props
Schraube1 - print it 3 times
Schraube2 - print it 6 times
Schraube3 - use brim

If not every part fits after printing you may have to use some abrasive paper.

Parts like the rotor should be sticked together.

  • 3D file format: STL and ZIP
  • Publication date: 2017/05/03 at 12:02




Designs 12
Downloads 5.3k
Followers 59

I am a civil engineer. In my work i do stuff like modeling digital surfaces for excavators. Something like 3D printing in a bigger scale..

For my latest designs i use fusion 360. It's perfect for 3D printing!.Earlier designs like the siren where made with AutoCAD. Something i don't recommend for 3D printing. It's awful for 3D modeling...

I come from Austria and my native language is german. So if my words sometimes don't look right the reason for that is that i don't speak english very often.

Page translated by automatic translation. See the original version.

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VERY IMPORTANT - and relative to a comment below. The two large housings are too large to print with any printer I have. Therefore, I split both of them in two pieces and printed the resulting four parts. I glued them back together and also made and glued some reinforcing straps. It is not as beautiful as the whole pieces, but it is not too bad and seems to work fine. I will upload some pictures when I am all done.

I made one of these and, amazingly, it worked first time. It is AWESOME. I printed most parts on my Anycubic I3 Mega. The large housings I printed on a FLSUN Delta printer because it is a lot faster. Unfortunately, it is not as precise as the Anycubic. The fit between the rotors and the housing is very tight. (I could probably open this up some, but it would probably not sing as well). In turn, the rough housing and the rotors rub and cause friction. This limits the ability to wind it up fast enough. I am reprinting the front part of the housing, where the tight fit is important, with the Anycubic. I will report back on how well that went in a few days.

What are the dimensions of the large parts? I'm wondering if they will fit on my printer? I have a Dremel model 3D45. Thanks.

A couple of questions:

How many of the bigger pieces could one print with a larger nozzle (0.8–1mm)?

Can any housing pieces be split to allow printing on square buildplates?
e.g. Gehause1 does not fit in the width of many printers.


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