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Air Raid Siren - hand crank version 2

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Creation quality: 4.7/5 (9 votes)
Evaluation of members on the printability, utility, level of detail, etc.

3D model description

Remix of my own design. I had a lot of positive response so i desided to redesign it and use metal bearings to avoid friction problems i had with the 100% 3D printed version. Runs much smoother now!

To build this you need these metric [mm] bearings:
(amount x outer diameter / inner diameter / height - link)

1 x 47/25/12 - SKF 6005-2Z
4 x 16/5/5 - SKF 625-2Z
I also tried to design it with 3d printed bearings - But did not work that well. I could get these bearing in an industrial store in my town for around 35 €. The bearing are standard sizes - so you should get them easy.

Videos:

I uploaded two clips to youtube.

Printing Timelapse: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VzprH9Nd3co
Assembly and Test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xtA24MJphcA

Slicer note:

I used Simplify3D to slice all parts. If you print it with MakerWare the parts might not fit together - i found out that MakerWare does not care for the nozzle size. Thats why i had some space between every part on my preview version that was featered on thingiverse. I don't now how cura and other slicers work. You should test it with some small parts like GetrRad2A and GetrRad2B before you print bigger parts - they should fit together very tight.

In case you own a Makerbot Replicator but don't have Simplify3D - i added a .zip-archive that contains all sliced .x3g-files ready to print. There is also a README.txt if you have problems getting the bigger parts printed on your R2.

Designing:

I use basic AutoCAD to draw my 3D stuff because i use it a lot on my work. It took me about 200 hours to design this siren. I added the drawing file if you want to make changes.


3D printing settings

Printer Brand:
MakerBot

Printer:
MakerBot Replicator 2

Rafts:
No

Supports:
No

Resolution:
0.2

Notes:
Most parts can be printed with standard settings - No Raft, No Support.

Except of following changes:

Gehause3 - change filament color while printing to get the text highlighted
GetrRad2A+B - print it solid, needs to be strong
GetrRad4A+B - print it solid, needs to be strong
Kurbel1 - use brim to prevent warbing
Kurbel2 - print the top layers solid
Rotor3 - print it with high resolution (0.1 mm) and raft to get clean props
Schraube1 - print it 3 times
Schraube2 - print it 6 times
Schraube3 - use brim
Post-Printing

If not every part fits after printing you may have to use some abrasive paper.

Parts like the rotor should be sticked together.

3D printer file information

  • 3D design format: STL and ZIP Folder details Close
    • SirHa_Gehause1.stl
    • SirHa_Gehause1klein.stl
    • SirHa_Gehause2.stl
    • SirHa_Gehause3.stl
    • SirHa_Gehause4.stl
    • SirHa_GetrRad1.stl
    • SirHa_GetrRad2A.stl
    • SirHa_GetrRad2B.stl
    • SirHa_GetrRad3.stl
    • SirHa_GetrRad4A.stl
    • SirHa_GetrRad4B.stl
    • SirHa_Kurbel1.stl
    • SirHa_Kurbel2.stl
    • SirHa_Kurbel3.stl
    • SirHa_Kurbel4.stl
    • SirHa_Rotor1.stl
    • SirHa_Rotor2.stl
    • SirHa_Rotor3.stl
    • SirHa_S3D_Replicator2.zip
    • SirHa_Schraube1.stl
    • SirHa_Schraube2.stl
    • SirHa_Schraube3.stl

    Learn more about the formats

  • Publication date: 2017-05-03 at 12:02

License

CC BY NC

Creator

I am a civil engineer. In my work i do stuff like modeling digital surfaces for excavators. Something like 3D printing in a bigger scale..

For my latest designs i use fusion 360. It's perfect for 3D printing!.Earlier designs like the siren where made with AutoCAD. Something i don't recommend for 3D printing. It's awful for 3D modeling...

I come from Austria and my native language is german. So if my words sometimes don't look right the reason for that is that i don't speak english very often.

Page translated by automatic translation. See the original version.
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