Skip to content

The "OptiCooler" part cooling solution for Wanhao Di3

?
Creation's quality: 5.0/5 (1 vote)
Evaluation of members on the printability, utility, level of detail, etc.
  • 1.6k views
  • 5 likes
  • 36 downloads

3D model description

What
This is a dual blower cooler that I have worked on for over a year in different variations.
It is designed to meet my specific requirements and I believe it turned out to perform really well.
The water test to see where the air goes is made at 50% fan speed:
https://youtu.be/R7mXLyg_j9s

It prints without support and is relatively lightweight at 80g including all hardware. The stock fan and shroud weighs in at 60g. The fans and funnels are snap-on, making them easy to change or replace.

Why
Powerful 360° cooling at an acceptable noise level.
You may need to PID-tune after installing but I have made sure that the airflow cools the heated block very little.
Using two instead of one blowers allows me to run them slower for the same cooling effect, reducing noise.
When used at high speeds, it is possible to print overhangs and small parts faster, since with less effective cooling you would otherwise have to slow down in order for the part to cool enough between layers.
The nozzle is visible and accessible.
Since the funnels are snap on, it is really easy to work on the hotend without having to remove anything else.
Easy installation with only two screws.

Performance
I can print smooth overhangs well up to 70° and acceptable up to 75° at 0,2mm layer height.
I can print textured overhangs well up to 60° and acceptable up to 75°.
The cooling is even around an octagonal (8-sided) test-object with edges staring to curl up at 75°, in equal amounts on all sides.

Compatibility
V2.1 printers: Print the "SpacerPlasticblock"
V2.0 printers: Print the "SpacerAlublock", you need to tap the threads in the block all way through.
PLUS versions: Print the files beginning with PLUS... (no spacer needed)
Hotends: Works with the stock and Microswiss hotends.
The fan-bracket is adjustable in height and should hopefully work with the most common other hotends, like the E3D. It can be lowered 8mm. Let me know if it still doesn't work for you.
Feel free to remix this. (The Fusion 360 files are nightmare to edit. Use for reference)

Hardware needed:
Two 5015 blowers (get the correct voltage for your printer model). I recommended Sunon maglev. Europe: https://www.tme.eu/gb/details/mf50151vx-a99/dc12v-fans/sunon/mf50151vx-b00u-a99/
A suitable connector to the wires (You need to get double wires in the connector, or just improvise without a connector).
Two M4x25mm (M4x20 works for the plus version)
Either hot glue or two M4x35mm and nuts for connecting the fans to each other. I use hot glue.

Print recommendations
0,16mm layer height.
3 walls for the FanBracket
4 walls for the Spacer
0% infill on all
You probably need a brim on the funnels.
If you are only printing at PLA temps, you can use PLA for this. PETG or ABS is recommended for anything hotter. But make sure you can print them with good layer adhesion. The funnels are only two walls thick.

Post porcessing
Break away the "Break away support" from the FanBracket.
Thoroughly remove any brim from the funnels .

Installation
See pictures
Assemble the screws, spacer and funnels.
Install it on the machine, the screws goes in the lower bearing block.
Make sure that the funnels are centred around the nozzle before tightening.
(If necessary, the entire hotend can be moved slightly by loosening the two screws holding the cold block from beneath).
Make sure the funnels are about 1-1.5mm above the nozzle.
Shorten the wires if you want.
Connect and solder the black wires to each other and the red wires to each other.
Use a suitable connector if you have one or improvise. Black goes to black, red to red.
Install the fans either one at a time and glue or screw them together afterwards.
Or glue them together before installation and snap them in place. Insert the inner fan's left side first and then press down the outer fan.
Pro tip: preheat the fans on the heated bed at 50° to make the hot glue adhere well and give you some time for adjustment.
Check that the heater cartridge wires are not in contact with the funnels. Carefully bend them away if needed.
Re-check that the funnels are centred and print away! I usually print PLA at 50-75% (with the really powerful Sunon blowers).
If the hotend is having trouble keeping the temp up, do a PID-tune with the fans enabled at around 50% or what % you think you will print at.

Let me know if something is unclear!

  • 3D file format: STL
  • Publication date: 2018/07/16 at 18:08

Tags

Creator

Designs 10
Downloads 1.5k
Sales US$101
Followers 14

Printing outside the box since 2016

When I get an idea, I never consider if it will be difficult, skills will be learned, many hours will be put down. I don't stop until it's perfect.

Have an idea?
Contact me if you want something designed or printed, I run a small business that sells designs, finished prints, industrial prototyping and more.

Have a nice day,
Jonas

License

CC BY NC


Best sellers of the category Tool


Add a comment


Would you like to support Cults?

You like Cults and you want to help us continue the adventure independently? Please note that we are a small team of 3 people, therefore it is very simple to support us to maintain the activity and create future developments. Here are 4 solutions accessible to all:

  • ADVERTISING: Disable your AdBlock banner blocker and click on our banner ads.

  • AFFILIATION: Make your purchases online by clicking on our affiliate links here Amazon, Gearbest or Aliexpress.

  • DONATE: If you want, you can make a donation via PayPal here.

  • WORD OF MOUTH: Invite your friends to come, discover the platform and the magnificent 3D files shared by the community!