This project includes Mains wiring. If you are uncomfortable with that, PLEASE seek help from someone who is suitably qualified. I can't therefore be held responsible for any unintended consequences.
I’d also wished I could have made this project COMPLETELY ’snap’ together, but as I’m an Electrical Engineer, I know that in my jurisdiction, there is a requirement that the ONLY way you should be able to touch a mains power cable is by use of a tool!. I’ve kept the top case & base snap together, & the front section as well. To satisfy the legal requirements, I’ve included two bolts at the rear of the case, between top & bottom parts. The IEC socket ‘snaps into place, & is kept below the ’surface’ of it’s holding, so fingernails can’t pull it out, only a knife or screwdriver can. This SATISFIES the legal requirements, & I would ask that ANYONE who completes this project use two countersink 12 mm screws for safety sake.
This is my second 'Thing', & also my second 'Fusion 360' design.
My other project--> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4033653
I’ve deliberately made this a tight fit for the RD6006, I didn’t want to put holes in the side, to allow the the nubs on the power supply module to poke through, for reasons of aesthetics. You may therefore have to lightly sand the entry points, (depending on your 3D printer). I’ve included nubs for the mid section of my case to ‘click’ into, & a series of ventilation holes, (with fillets to smooth the top & bottom to the touch) to both top & bottom of the front of the case to allow passive cooling, but ALSO to allow cooling air an entry point to be drawn in, by my rear panel fan.
I made the fan shroud, using ‘arcs’ & the ‘circular pattern’ feature in Fusion 360, & it matches the structure of the AFB0612VHC fan to allow maximum airflow. If you use a different fan, you may impede this. The IEC PP4003 socket hole was made to be tight, since I’ve not used bolts (you may need to slightly sand the hole, depending on your printer)
I've include PDFs about the fan, so it is a simple matter to put the nuts inside the fan's case, & tighten the M3 x 16r bolts, making sure to have the fan correctly orientated so that air travels in through the front ventilation holes, alongside the LED power supply, & then from the case. Also make sure to put a fuse & spare inside the IEC Socket assembly. Wire the IEC Socket & Switch using the diagram in the Post Printing for reference. You can use ’Crimp Connectors’, but I personally ALSO solder the wire inside the connector (especially on the earth connections). Push the IEC socket through the hole in the rear panel, & using spade forks, attach them to the power supply.
I’ve made it possible to solidly mount the power supply, whilst also allowing air to flow freely both under & over it, being finally drawn out by the rear fan.
When attaching top, slide rear section screw attachments first, then ‘click’ the top onto ‘Main Base’.
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