Skip to content

Hall sensor device for bed autoleveling

Creation's quality: 0.0/5 (0 votes)
Evaluation of members on the printability, utility, level of detail, etc.
  • 1 like

3D model description

From long time I was trying to make a cheap, light and affordable level sensor for my printer but I didn't like none of these found around, 'til I discovered a very good idea on (read it carefully), so... at work!
The results were conforting, so here is my probe; it should works very well (only tested outside printer) with good repeatability (don't ask me about mills, microns and so on...).
It's intended to fit the X carriage of (I'm yet building it) using the belt clamps holes, but it's easily remixable in Tinkercad to fit your needs.
Based on a Hall sensor switch from

- M3 screw 10mm (autolevel arm pin)
- M3 screw 8mm (autolevel PCB adjusting)
- 2 x M3 nut
- a not very strong round magnet from 6x1mm to 6x3mm (Neodimium cube 5x5mm was too strong to work correctly), like these in fridge magnets
- a metal pin 25x2.5mm (I used pin from a rivet)
- spring from a ballpoint pen
- cyan glue for magnets fixing

The magnet must be strong enough to stick the arm nut when the probe is at the top, but must release it when the arm tilts.
Pay particular attention to what magnet side fire up the sensor, only one side makes the trick!
Fix the nut into arm with cyan.
Drill the probe channel on the base with a 4.5mm tip.
Drill the arm hole with a 3.5mm tip.
The metal pin (see BOM) into the probe has to be lightly tight, so you can after find the right length; when done you can fix it with cyan.
Screw 4-5 turns of the spring (max length 4mm) around the probe and cut the remaining. This will help to avoid the magnet be sticking to arm when this rises.
Refine the probe (if necessary) to let it slide freely (really free!) into the base guides (bottom round and top square).
Much care must be used on magnet position.
To enable the probe is up to you to find a good point where to place a pin long enough to push the arm to initialize the probe.
As stated on Reprap Wiki, the bottom side of support (not the pin!) has to be about 5mm above the nozzle with pin extruding about 5mm.
Now it's up to you calibrating all the stuff, pin length and PCB height adjusting, to obtain good results as I did.

3D printing settings

Layer 0.20mm
Infill 100%
Just print items as shown, then cut away the anti-warping plates.

  • 3D file format: STL
  • Publication date: 2020/12/13 at 12:26



Designs 79
Downloads 493
Sales US$63
Followers 18

Electronic technician in Italian AF, now 75, retired, with much time to spend...

Best sellers of the category Tool

Add a comment

Would you like to support Cults?

You like Cults and you want to help us continue the adventure independently? Please note that we are a small team of 3 people, therefore it is very simple to support us to maintain the activity and create future developments. Here are 4 solutions accessible to all:

  • ADVERTISING: Disable your AdBlock banner blocker and click on our banner ads.

  • AFFILIATION: Make your purchases online by clicking on our affiliate links here Amazon or Aliexpress.

  • DONATE: If you want, you can make a donation via PayPal here.

  • WORD OF MOUTH: Invite your friends to come, discover the platform and the magnificent 3D files shared by the community!