Hall sensor device for bed autoleveling
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3D model description
From long time I was trying to make a cheap, light and affordable level sensor for my printer but I didn't like none of these found around, 'til I discovered a very good idea on http://reprap.org/wiki/CrashProbe (read it carefully), so... at work!
The results were conforting, so here is my probe; it should works very well (only tested outside printer) with good repeatability (don't ask me about mills, microns and so on...).
It's intended to fit the X carriage of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2254103 (I'm yet building it) using the belt clamps holes, but it's easily remixable in Tinkercad to fit your needs.
Based on a Hall sensor switch from https://it.aliexpress.com/item/Hall-Sensor-Magnetic-Module-Field-Detecting-Sensor-For-Arduino-Smart-Car-FreeShipping-Dropshipping/653186357.html
- M3 screw 10mm (autolevel arm pin)
- M3 screw 8mm (autolevel PCB adjusting)
- 2 x M3 nut
- a not very strong round magnet from 6x1mm to 6x3mm (Neodimium cube 5x5mm was too strong to work correctly), like these in fridge magnets
- a metal pin 25x2.5mm (I used pin from a rivet)
- spring from a ballpoint pen
- cyan glue for magnets fixing
The magnet must be strong enough to stick the arm nut when the probe is at the top, but must release it when the arm tilts.
Pay particular attention to what magnet side fire up the sensor, only one side makes the trick!
Fix the nut into arm with cyan.
Drill the probe channel on the base with a 4.5mm tip.
Drill the arm hole with a 3.5mm tip.
The metal pin (see BOM) into the probe has to be lightly tight, so you can after find the right length; when done you can fix it with cyan.
Screw 4-5 turns of the spring (max length 4mm) around the probe and cut the remaining. This will help to avoid the magnet be sticking to arm when this rises.
Refine the probe (if necessary) to let it slide freely (really free!) into the base guides (bottom round and top square).
Much care must be used on magnet position.
To enable the probe is up to you to find a good point where to place a pin long enough to push the arm to initialize the probe.
As stated on Reprap Wiki, the bottom side of support (not the pin!) has to be about 5mm above the nozzle with pin extruding about 5mm.
Now it's up to you calibrating all the stuff, pin length and PCB height adjusting, to obtain good results as I did.
3D printing settings
Just print items as shown, then cut away the anti-warping plates.
- 3D file format: STL
- Publication date: 2020/12/13 at 12:26
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