Drive Her Wild! Straddle Saddle 2.0 Battery Powered Portable Remote Printable On A Prusa
3D model description
Straddle Saddle 2.0 Battery Powered Portable Remote Printable On A Prusa
Watch this video:
This project all came about when I was looking up the most expensive 3D models in the “Naughties” category on this site.
That is where I discovered Boris’ redesigned version of the “Sybian®”. I was definitely interested in having a $1,400 sex toy for about $150. A youtuber recently told me one of his viewers’ wife didn’t approve of him purchasing a 3D printer. I wondered, if he could 3D print a $1,400 female toy for just $100-$150, if his wife would be more inclined to approve of the purchase.
The purple version is a user make. I don't have the Ryobi battery design files, he customized my design to use that type of battery. My design files are for the DeWalt battery!
Keep in mind the Sybian® is designed with both a clitoral and vaginal stimulation. My device and others only stimulate clitorally. But that hasn’t stopped women from having the best orgasms of their lives using only the clitoral stimulation. You can watch multiple examples of Howard Stern using it(clitoral only) on his celebrity guests on Youtube.com
After I purchased Boris’ design I was disappointed to discover (after paying almost $80) the heart of the machine(the cam) would have to be custom ordered and made my a machinist in a machine shop on a lathe. The pulley would have to be custom machined and threaded as well. But I appreciate Boris’ design as an inspiration and did not request a refund. Instead I started to wonder if there was a way to 3D print a work around to the “cam problem.”
I went ahead and printed all the other 3D printable parts including the molds. Then I went to work on designing a work around for an elliptical cam that could be 3D printable. After many, many hours the more I designed the work around the more I found ways to improve the entire design. One by one…. improvement by improvement… I ended up not using any of the original design, as I found ways to make every part fit my personal preferences.
What I came up with I’m pretty impressed with… and especially my lady friend really likes it a lot.
Changes I made:
- In the first version of my design, I designed the printed parts to bolt to the top of a mailbox shaped housing, instead of mounting to the base. This gave me a lot more freedom to mount the internal mechanism inside any housing I chose.
IN THIS VERSION I redesigned so you can print the housing.
- When I decided to redesign the cam I also wanted the pulleys 3D printable. I also chose to go with a T5 tooth gear profile to be 100% sure the belt I used would never slip. T5 belts are incredibly strong and durable.
One nice thing is you can order T5 pulleys right off Amazon if you prefer a different pulley/gear size.
I wanted to be 100% sure the materials used in contact with the human body were well tested. I noticed that the Sybian®… the Motor Bunny… the Multiple Orgasm Machine(aka MOM) all used the same latex attachment cover, so I designed my attachment
base to work with Sybian® and all the other 3rd party latex and silicone covers. The advantage is two fold, first you can purchase ready made 3rd party silicone and latex covers. This means they are safe and you have a wide choice of designs to choose
from. I found other interesting attachments on Etsy as well.
The vibrating top is designed in such a way as to connect to the internal vibrating mechanism/platform using just two risers with bolts running down the center. This simplified design makes it so you can 3D model your own vibrating bases and easily connect them to the internal mechanism… in case you
have some designs you’d like to try.
I have included the angled/lifted clitoral top so you can use regular 3rd party Sybian® covers (no need to purchase an additional clitoral attachment).
- Both the Sybian® and Boris’s designs use springs to support the back end of the orbiting internal platform. I opted for a design that only uses bungie cords to levitate the back end of the vibrating platform. This way you can adjust the “spring” in both the up and down directions of the platform by simply changing the tension of the bungie cords holding up the ear end of the internal platform. SEE THE ASSEMBLY VIDEO.
Building “The Machine”
I designed this to be printed and assembled in the simplest and most affordable way possible. I designed it specifically so you can order all the parts on Amazon.
For cushioning the outside of the housing I used one of those foam floor mats that help people who are standing on their feet all day (not the diamond plate design, but it is in the same
section). Choose whatever works for you.
2- 608 skate board bearings
1-T5 timing belt 10mm wide 225mm length.
1-T5 timing belt 10mm wide 340mm length.
2- 20x27x4 Metal Shielded Sealed Ball Bearings 6704-ZZ
All the threaded bolts(other than the 8mm rod for the cam) are 1/4-20 thread. There are many lengths(watch the video to see the lengths shown on the digital calipers in the assembly video).
Use all 1/4-20 size lock nuts.
Be sure to use
1- 8mm threaded rod to go through the 608 skate board bearings
10-8mm(or US equivalent) Nylon lock nuts
3- bungie cords
1- Motor (your choice) + nuts and bolts and proper mounting parts
1- Sound insulating material to make it quieter. MAKE SURE YOUR MOTOR DOESN’T OVERHEAT DURING USE!
There might be a few of pieces I can’t remember
Tools you will need:
Safety Glasses and gloves
Various drill bits
Dremel with cutoff disks
Utility knife to cut holes in the housing cover(mat) and to cut sound insulation for the internal walls
WARNING: I am not a professional engineer. I am not a doctor. I am not a scientist. I am not an electrician. If you choose to build this design you do so at your own risk!!!
It is impossible for me to think of all the potential risks that are possible, but here are some things to consider…
Certain materials don’t play nice with others… ie. Silicone and water based toys and lubricants. I have no idea what 3d printing filaments work well with silicone… latex and other materials, do your own homework.
- I am not an electrician. Due to the nature of the device, the machine and the user could come into contact with lubricants and bodily fluids, to avoid electric shock and personal danger, it is extremely important to ground and insulate all electrical components. Also consider using fuses and an emergency stop button.
People’s weight can vary greatly and depending our the and materials you choose and how they are printed, they may fail if not designed for the weight of the person using the device.
Using a motor that is too fast is almost guaranteed to cause the device to self destruct quickly in an unsafe manner. Please consider a drive motor with a safe top speed. Please choose a motor controller that will never start at full speed.
Depending on your design the device may generate a lot of heat. It is important that you test and ensure your design does not get dangerously hot.
There are many more risks I cannot think of so build and use this device at your own risk!
Depending on the motor, gear ratios and speeds you run the drive motor at, this design could be run at a dangerous speed that the human body isn’t designed to handle.
I am also not responsible if you turn into a magician and this device saws your wife in half.
I am not responsible if your wife leaves you and takes this machine with her
In all seriousness don’t take yours and other people’s safety lightly!
Side note: After all this design work I decided to release it to the public because I didn’t want all this work to be wasted on just one person. One thing I’m looking to get out of releasing this model (besides recuperation some of the money I’ve spent) is to see what
combinations of component assemblies other people come up with. I want to see what motors and speed controllers people incorporate that work best. I designed this 2.0 version to be powered by and electric skateboard motor. This would allow the vibrator to be portable… no need for a power outlet… and could be controlled with a wireless remote controller.
I am not an electrical engineer so I'm not the person to tell you how to wire up the wireless motor and controller. I will say that I simply used a skateboard motor and speed controller. I also used a DeWalt battery adapter to power the saddle.
I haven't created an instruction on electronics. What I basically did was convert electric skateboard parts. You can use a regular speed controller if you wish if it is safe and won't over heat. I like the VESC speed controller. I used a brushless motor. I used a wireless electric skateboard transmitter and receiver. I would recommend using a Lithium Ion battery and not a LiPo battery. I used DeWalt battery adapter to power the saddle.
I chose not to share the electronics info because I'm not an expert on the safe use of electronics. If you can build an electric skateboard you can put the parts in my design.
PLEASE SHARE YOUR SOLUTIONS FOR MAKING THE DEVICE THE BEST IT CAN BE!
3D printer file information
3D design format: STL Folder details Close
- Brushless Motor Mount 2.0.stl
- Cam Bearing Pulley 2.0.stl
- Electronics Divider 2.0 Tall.stl
- Electronics Divider 2.0 Tall.stl
- Electronics Divider 2.0.stl
- Eliptical Platform Base 2.0.stl
- Eliptical Platfrorm Bearing Cap 2.0.stl
- Endcap With Holes For Wires 2.0.stl
- Housing Endcap No Holes 2.0.stl
- Main Housing 1 of 3 2.0.stl
- Main Housing 2 of 3 2.0.stl
- Main Housing 3 of 3 2.0.stl
- Middle Pulley Bearing Base 2.0.stl
- Middle Pulley Bearing Cap 2.0.stl
- Roof Pillow Block Base 2.0.stl
- Roof Pillow Block Bearing Cap 2.0.stl
- Straddle Saddle 60mm Riser 2.0.stl
- Straddle Saddle Attachment 2.0.stl
- Straddle Saddle Feet 2.0.stl
- Straddle Saddle Middle Pulley 2.0.stl
- Straddle Saddle T5 Brushless Motor Pulley 2.0.stl
- Last update: 2022-09-11 at 20:18
- Publication date: 2022-08-12 at 03:44
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