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Ergonomic Grip For Ps-Vita V2 (PCH-1000)

3D model description

Update 05/09/17:
I've added a version that can be printed as one singular piece.
Out of curiosity I tried printing it using support structures. I think it turned out surprisingly well but ultimately, less post-process work is required getting a smooth finish if you simply print it as two parts. (I've added a couple of photos pre-sanding)

Nevertheless, it's there for those with fancy printers / those more confident than I am printing with supports. It's oriented in such a way that the surface on which the console will lie upon is printed flat.

Update 28/07/17:
Gallery with larger photos:

Original text:
This is a complete from-scratch-redesign of my ergonomic grip for the Vita and whilst the function and intent remains the same, it is a vast improvement in pretty much every conceivable way.

Most notably; I've worked hard to better match the shape of the console and it's now damned near perfect and I doubt I could do much better with reference photos alone. Because of the better fit a supplementary retention mechanism isn't really necessary anymore and so the grip relies entirely on friction to keep the Vita in place, and it will do so quite well I might add. Depending on the padding used, it will only potential slide out if deliberately held upside down, but I really don't conceive of it becoming an issue. For padding I used carpet tape with paper stuck to one side but a couple of layers of masking tape works fine as well.

Furthermore; since there's no retention mechanism the grip is more sturdy than the old one, and adding to that I've increased the girth of the horizontal frame. The shape of the grip itself is still that of a 360 controller only somewhat larger, but it's not quite as large as the old version. I've also made it so that the vita will sit at a slight angle when the grip is laid flat, meaning that the grip can bed held at a somewhat more natural angle (more like one would hold a normal controller), screen still facing the user.

As always I strongly recommend wet-sanding as in my experience no matter how fine the layer thickness it wont make for a nice thing to hold for extended periods. I've left the one in the pictures somewhat rough as I intend to give it a proper painted finish but if you aren't painting it then I've found grits 120, 200 and 400 to be ideal resulting in a pleasantly coarse finish. Going much finer than 400 will result in an almost glossy finish which I personalty don't like.

With my original print I had to do some shaping to get a nice line around the triggers, I have since adjusted the model but I have yet to print it, and whilst I don't think it's going to be an issue; consider it one more reason to be prepared to sand it (Update: I've since printed it and as expected there's no issue). I've also widened the cut out on the front, making room for bulkier headphone jacks.

Lastly; I've made a version that is split into four parts in order to allow for smaller print surfaces. The largest of these four is 124mm x 108mm as opposed to 216mm x 108mm for the normal version. I've split them in such a way that they should have plenty of surface area to be glued together but no promises made since I haven't tried it myself.

3D printing settings

Printed with an Ultimaker 2+ in PLA

Layer thickness: I used 0.1mm for the sake of not having to work so hard on sanding down the ring pattern, but 0.2mm will give good results.

Bottom/Top layers: Up to your own judgement but I recommend adding layers as needed for the sake of making the horizontal frame solid and thus more rigid. I also recommend printing the bottom piece with a concentric top pattern as this will lead to better results when sanding.

Wall thickness: I tend to print with 4 shells (0.4mm nozzle width), but 3 shells is fine depending on how low you want the resolution (lower resolution requires more sanding i.e thicker walls).

Infill: Again, use your own judgement. I used something like 5% cubic pattern.

  • 3D model format: STL



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I'm an HCI student with a passion for digital manufacturing, and I have a serious beef with crappy ergonomics and misguided design.



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Hi IgnacioGangloff.
I don't own a slim so I can't really say with any certainty. I have heard from a couple of people who printed my older vita grip, and according to them it will fit the slim if you do some filing around the trigger areas. This newer version is a bit more conservative around the triggers so if what they say is true then it may fit the slim no modifications needed.
No guarantees though, so if you want to give it a go then I suggest you start with the older free version and judge for yourself before paying for this one.

Hi Gneraudeau and thank you for the support!
Since I started making these I've been gradually transitioning from Maya to Fusion 360 (with a bit of Mudbox in between). For this one I modelled the base controller shape in Mudbox and then converted it to t-splines in F360. After cleaning it up a bit and adjusting it to the cradle shape, I converting it to a solid and "booleaned" the shapes. For my current project I've modelled a t-spline controller base from scratch which turned out to be both easier and more flexible.
I can't really speak for Solidworks capabilities but T-splines are awesome for stuff like this.

Hi! Very nice design! i'll buy you the STL file. What kind of soft did you use for the design? (I often use Solidworks but i'm not sure i could realize this kind of object)

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