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Ergonomic Grip For 3DS v2 (original 3DS + DS Lite)

Creation's quality: 2.8/5 (2 votes)
Evaluation of members on the printability, utility, level of detail, etc.

3D model description

Update 20/06/18:
Now free :)

Update 16/08/17:
Per request I've added an alternative top peace sized after the DS Lite. I Haven't printed it but I'm confident that it'll fit fine.

Update 28/07/17:
A gallery with larger photos:

Original text:
Whilst I don't have any personal interest in altering the grip for other versions of the 3DS/DS, it's not out of the question if there's enough interest, so do let me know.

This is an iteration on my previous grip for the original 3DS ( It addresses some shortcomings and whilst it isn't a complete redesign like my upcoming vita grip, I still think it's a worthwhile improvement. The old version will still be available for free as I think it would be silly to remove it, but know that this one is superior if you'd like to support my ergonomics endeavours ;)

Playing games that favour the d-pad over the analog-pad, I realised that it becomes awkward having the d-pad positioned so far down on the grip. Shifting the console further up goes a long way to amend this but since both pads are vertically aligned there isn't really any optimum in-between and the player will be forced to either shift their grip or strain their thumb whenever they go from one to the other.

Whilst not the most elegant my solution was to add an optional spacer-piece that shifts the console further up when playing d-pad heavy games. This does make the triggers a bit less convenient to reach but there isn't really any way to avoid that without stretching the shape of the grip, and unless you have really big hands this will only puts more strain on your hands and fingers in general (my hands are fairly medium). The headphone-jack is still accessible with the space in place and I added a convenient stylus holder for the sake of it ;)

To accommodate the console being shifted further up I tweaked the cut-outs for the volume and wi-fi switches and I also decreased some margins to provide a tighter fit. There's still some play to allow for padding as plastic on plastic doesn't provide the friction required. For the sides I use a couple of layers of masking tape which works really well (avoid the cheap stuff) and for the retention plates I cut out some adhesive padding.

As with the previous version, it's made with water-sanding in mind and whilst I haven't tried painting it yet there should be enough margin on the inside for that as well. I used grits 120, 200, 400 and 800 for the one in the pictures, although 800 ended up being overkill for my own taste.

3D printing settings

Printed with an Ultimaker 2+ in PLA

Layer thickness: I used 0.1mm for the sake of not having to work so hard on sanding down the ring pattern, but 0.2mm will give good results.

Bottom/Top layers: Up to your own judgement but I recommend adding layers as needed for the sake of avoiding a gap in the flat based on the top piece. I also recommend printing the bottom piece with concentric top pattern as this will lead to better results when sanding.

Wall thickness: I tend to print with 4 shells (0.4mm nozzle width), but 3 shells is fine depending on how low you want the resolution.

Infill: Again, use your own judgement but I recommend something like 10% grid pattern in the bottom piece for the sake providing support for the flat roof section.

3D printer file information

  • 3D design format: STL Folder details Close
    • Top_DS_Lite.stl
    • bottom_v2.1.stl
    • misc_v2.1.stl
    • spacer_v2.1.stl
    • top_v2.1.stl
  • Last update: 2018/06/20 at 18:22
  • Publication date: 2017/07/17 at 21:14





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How much should this typically cost to make? All the quotes I'm getting are around $100 which is crazy, but I don't know anything about 3d printing.

I did something like that. I created a puzzle shape cutout in the middle and added a .4mm gap inbetween because thats the tollerance my printer has.

Come up with any smart solution? I've been meaning to add a version that would fit together something like this: I figured it'd be the best way to maximise surface area.

My printing plate is only 120 mm so i had to cut the model in half in a puzzle shape. Do you want the files for others like me?

Ohhh that makes sense. Thanks!

Hi Petcson.
My apologies for not being clear enough. The idea is that you print the two lip pieces separately and attach them with a dab of superglue. (the lips are part of the ‘misc’ file)

If you'd like I could provide a version with the lips pre-attached, but since the lips are completely free hanging it won't be ideal for print, or at least not if you're using an FDM printer.

its possible that when you uploaded the new download for the ds lite you accidentally replaced both top pieces with the ds lite tops or something like that.

I bought this and was reviewing the model and noticed that there is no lip ontop of the grip to hold the 3ds in place on the files given to me. Could i have been given the wrong files?

Hi Chadedat.
I've added an alternative top peace that should fit the DS Lite :)

Have you made one for the DS lite? I'd really love that! I can't find one for purchase in Philippines but there are 3d print shops

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