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Snap-in cover for Flo-Mask - Bat Wings

Creation quality: 5.0/5 (1 vote)
Evaluation of members on the printability, utility, level of detail, etc.


Licence CULTS - Private Use
Publication date 2023-06-04 at 10:04
Design number 1253388
3D design format
3MF and STL Folder details Close
  • V3-FLO-8-New-BatWings-2-actual.3mf
  • V3-FLO-8-New-BatWings-2-actual.stl
  • V3-FLO-8-New-BatWings-3-actual.3mf
  • V3-FLO-8-New-BatWings-3-actual.stl

Learn more about the formats

3D printer file info

3D model description

A fun cover for the Flo mask, made to snap into the outer part of the mask.
This is a re-designed version of the Batwings that attach to the side of the mask.

Please note that these designs are not from and also not endorsed by the FLO-MASK manufacturer.
The designs are my personal initiative and I make no claims about safety and functionality, they are purely for visual enhancement!

I have tested these inserts myself and have not experienced any increased difficulty with breathing.

The preferred material is PETG as that is considered food-safe, odor free and quite easy to work with.

The print is flat and needs to be curved by hand. In my experience this works best when coming hot off the printer.
It can also be done afterwards with a hair-dryer or hot-air blower to make the plastic slightly flexible.
Place one corner into the mask and bend the the print so that the rim catches the mask all around. After cooling it will stay in that shape. Gently heat and push out the parts that have moved inwards, to make sure that the plastic is free from the filter material.

Attention: please make sure NOT to overheat the FLO mask part! Although it is made from Poly-Carbonate and quite strong and heat resistant it is best to warm up the clip-in on a wooden surface before mounting it in the mask.

3D printing settings

Use PETG as it is quite strong and flexible in thin prints like this. Print at 230-240 degrees and bed temperature at 75 degrees.
(ABS doesn't like bending and PLA can become brittle)
The picture shows a version in WOOD-PLA, but this is very brittle and the parts that stick out can easily snap off.

I personally like to work with a 0.6mm nozzle because it allows for easy adjusting of the extruded line, from 0.45 to even 1 mm (slower speed, higher temp) with good bonding results.

Because of the thin lines that need to connect strongly to each other, I prefer to OVER-extrude about 20-30%, so if your normal extrusion factor is around 1,00 then increase to 1,2 -1.35.
Slicer settings: I test the result in preview with variable extrusion thickness, to make sure that all perimeters and infill are bonding.

At the moment my printing surface is Kapton tape on glass.


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