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Aizawa Shouta "Eraser Head" Goggles

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Creation's quality: 5.0/5 (1 vote)
Evaluation of members on the printability, utility, level of detail, etc.
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  • 17 likes
  • 54 downloads

3D model description

Eraser Head's goggles from My Hero Academia. uses paperclips as pins to hold all the pieces together in a chain. a dab of clear glue holds the pins in place. the "lenses" are also printed, you can see out of them just fine but no one can see in. lenses stay in place with a small amount of glue in the corners. it's possible to print this and not have to paint it if you use yellow and black filament.


3D printing settings

PARTS LIST
left eye piece X1
right eye piece x 1
nose piece X 1
lens small X 2
lens long X 2
left chain end X 1
right chain end X 1
left chain link X 3~6
right chain link X 3~6
Paper Clips or Stiff Wire
Clear Glue

Elastic strap and a needle and thread or velcro

LAYER HEIGHT
I printed these at 0.2 mm layer height. you can use a finer setting, but I would not use a courser setting as the sizing and quality of the pinholes may decrease.

SHELLS
2 outer walls is perfectly acceptable for most parts. on the lenses i used 4 walls for better bed adhesion. the lenses should also have 0 top and bottom thickness so you can look throught the infill. some slicers are easier to do this on than others.

SUPPORTS
most parts are set up to need the least ammount of supports, but most parts still require them. the chain links absoutley need supports for the floating pin holes. they should be easy to clean up if the bottoms of the holes are not perfect. the eye pieces have areas that may need supports, but if you can do good bridhes and overhangs you may not need them. the nose piece does not require supports. the lenses do not require suppors.

PRINT ORIENTATION
all parts should be pre-oriented for best printing.

ASSEMBLY
use paper clips or other wire to attach all the pieces. push the wire through the pin holes to attach each piece in series. and snip them so they are flush with the printed part. put a small dab of glue into the hole at both ends to secure the pins in place. the chain ends should go at the end of the chain, and have a loop to attach and elastic or velcro strap.

3D printer file information

  • 3D design format: STL Folder details Close
    • Left Eye Piece.stl
    • Right Eye Piece.stl
    • chain end left.stl
    • chain end right.stl
    • chain segment left.stl
    • chain segment right.stl
    • eye Cover long.stl
    • eye Cover small.stl
    • nose piece.stl
  • Last update: 2020/12/29 at 18:47
  • Publication date: 2020/08/27 at 19:14

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3 comments

Can I get some more details on making the lenses? I've had a few problems getting it to work on Cura and Prusaslicer

Why is the nose bridge different than what is shown in the model photo? I prefer that over what is provided. Unless my eyes deceive me, it could very well be the angle at which the photo was taken.

The nose was changed after I was told it hurt people's faces.

Thats fair. If possible, I'd love to have the original nose bridge as well. The round look of the new nose piece just doesn't look cohesive with the sharp angles. Nothing a little padding cant fix. Regardless, if you can or cant, it's really well done and scaled up very well (137%, I have a watermelon for a head). Will post results after the chains are done. Thanks for the cool design.

i dont have the original version. i could remake something similar and add it.

No worries - This was the 5th successful print for me and it came out amazing. I think this would be a good learning opportunity to learn how to "remix" a model myself. Thanks again!

Printed the eye pieces last night in Eryone Yellow PLA. Came out great with only two supports on my E3V2. As they're for my daughter, I'll have to remix the nose piece a bit to fit her smaller face I think, but otherwise, they're a great model. The Eryone Yellow is nearly dead on for the color and at 0.2mm layer height they will need minimal post processing.


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