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Tina Stark aka Iron Girl - Bimbo Series Model 1 - BY SPARX

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Download free 3D printer templates Tina Stark aka Iron Girl - Bimbo Series Model 1 - BY SPARX, wikd2011

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3D model description

The beginning of a series of "Female- Bimbo" (no offense to female members just Bimbo fits!) alternatives to Marvel and DC characters.
This is not an easy printable and is my first endeavour into the 3D printing process of model making.
This is a very high resolution STL files . so they are zipped.
There is full details of my inspirations, design tools used etc. in the enclosed instructions.pdf, I strongly advise downloading this to get the best possible print
A lot of Paint !

I SHARE MY WORK FOR OTHERS TO ENJOY. . .PLEASE DO NOT SHARE THESE FILES ON SOCIAL MEDIA OR OTHER WEBSITES. LINKS TO THIS PAGE ARE ACCEPTED

there is a fair amount of postwork required for this model.
the alternative arms and head have holes printed but may not line up or fit correctly in the sockets without a bit of sanding.
I left the armour with print lines , but used Keytone then washing, then sanding, then acetone wash . . with a lot of masking and spraying.
Main armour spray painted, body acrylic hand painted and finished contouring etc . .before a final 3 coats of clear lacquer.
I printed two chest plates, one with T-Glass and one in ABS

3D printing settings

While you are printing this model , please bear in mind how complicated, yet at the same time, each piece has its own challenge . .you will get along great. To inspire you along the way on the right a picture of the finished , painted version . . .
I printed 7 left arms , 4 heads with helmet before I came up with the most successful orientation in the printer to ensure the detail I required.
First if you allow me to rant, or if not skip to page 2 . .
Having come from the games industry back in the early 80’s we just started using polygon, 3D Max prior the windows platform and Laura Croft was not yet born . . .it was time for me to take my sculpting and model making into the 21st century . . so I bought a 3D printer . . maybe the XYZ davinci was not the best choice but decided to stick with it . .
I quickly learned that the scanner on the davinci was less than useful, so my plan to model in clay, scan and print . . gone.
I decide to learn all I could about the davinci and 3d printing, joining discussion groups, downloading other people’s models from Thingiverse etc. and looking to see what works and what does not . . a long process.
My past sculpting/model making background had shown me that when casting moulds certain overhands and detail did not work . .and it’s the same with 3D printing.
Armed with this I decided to look for free or cheap tools to enable me to create my own models . .
After trials and tribulations with all sorts of CAD packages (as an engineer I use them every week) I decided on;
Autodesk 123D for non-organic, Autodesk Meshmixer (after disappointment with Sculptris) for sculpting, modification of objects and Daz3D for generating poses to sculpt over.
Using Daz is Ok but having to put tone, muscle etc to a figure costs money. There are a lot of clothing free downloads I even tried a feree Ironman suit objects . .but Daz clothes do not print well. The printer sees the figure, then the clothes and if Nettfab basic cant combine them, your printer try’s to print a 0.2mm thick armoured leg onto a Daz figure!
So my technique was simple . .. Daz set pose, find objects I could then draw in 123D, or load into Meshmixer and scale/place onto my female. Once this was done, extrude the clothing into the female body, then combine . . a little trip into Netfabb, fix, save, back into Meshmixer and sculpt all of the detail.
I am sure that you did not buy a printer to print other peoples work . .I urge you to have a go at producing something simple or complicated using the available tools out there . .. I have only owned my printer for less than 100 days . .and as you may have guessed I am not a young man . . but an 70’s teenager!
So let me show you my settings and explain my pitfalls . .
All of the printing was at 0.2mm, slow speed . . different thicknesses/fill percentage used for various parts . . as detailed below.
The top lid of the box is better printed with the shins in place SHINS AND BOX.STL
Printed as picture right, with supports under the handles of the box only.
Printed 60% filled
If you print the box lid separate the same settings . . if you print the shins separate then, increase to 75% fill . . you can then drill four holes in the box lid to glue shins in place.
BOX BASE.STL
Printed as picture right, with supports under the EDGES of the box only.
Printed 60% filled
TORSO.STL
Printed as picture right, with supports under the THIGHS only.
Printed 60% filled
This is the largest piece and has a few pitfalls, if you have to place further supports on arm sockets and the back of the shoulders and your printer software allows selection do so . . if not, try Meshmixer add supports, then EXPORT the STL. Load STL back in and select and remove supports as you need.
There are some great advantages of printing in small pieces, the first is obvious, selecting different fills for each part . . but the best one . . if it goes wrong try printing again after examining the part for flaws, add support etc . . My Davinci managed as in picture . . arm sockets got a bit messy but hey, I had to file down to fit pins and arms anyhow . . better than time spent removing supports.
So that was the easy bit now the complicated pieces . .

ARM WITH HELMET.STL
Printed as picture right, with supports under the THE WHOLE ARM.
Printed 100% filled SOLID
Now I know what you are thinking what an unusual angle, the reason is to get the helmet to print without supports to keep detail . .by all means try other positions BUT I did with not much success!

RIGHTARM NO HELMET.STL
Printed as picture right, with supports under the THE Arm ONLY
Printed 100% filled SOLID
Again please take my word for it , the best orientation to get fingers to print without breaking.
LEFT ARM .STL
Printed as picture right, with supports under the THE Arm ONLY
Printed 100% filled SOLID
Again to get fingers to print without breaking!
If after a couple of prints you still cannot get a good print, load right arm, clone, mirror in software and use that!

HEAD WITH HELMET.STL and HEAD ONLY.STL
Printed as picture right, with supports under the THE hair ONLY.
Printed 100% filled SOLID
The pony tail needs support, but the head will print in this orientation.
N.B. if you use a raft, then lift the head 7mm from bed/platform and support the base of the head and helmet.
WHY??? Print the head in this orientation???? Simple it’s the nose . . I have learned the hard way when printing heads print upside down and layers horizontal to face . . Better detail on face this way . . also with the head an helmet the visor will only print this way . .

So if you thought that was difficult and you have got this far . . box the next two bits are a bit of a challenge . . .
SPINE.STL
Printed as picture right, with BUILT IN SUPPORTS .
Printed 100% filled SOLID
In this orientation there are very few overhangsI have included the spline with attached supports to assist in printing . .should you find it not working, load STL into Meshmixer and add subtract supports as you wish . .this for me works.

CHEST.STL
Printed as picture right, you must use supports inside and under chest “U” piece . .do not add too many, as this is a very thin item, support removal may damage . .
Printed 100% filled SOLID
In this orientation, the chest piece will not show too many print layer lines, I have designed 56 chest designs, printed 40 plus and had to print this 4 times . . it is a massive challenge for the davinci to print 0.2mm and so fine a piece.
If you do have difficulty printing, load into meshmixer, do to print. . fix print at thickness 0.6 and save . . try extrusion on the piece . . or just print very slow, let it cool perfectly before removing and supports . .
So all you have to do now is sand, acetone treat the “fleshy bits” I left the suit layers visible as I liked the look . .
To fit arms I drill a 6mm hole in arm socket, and use a screw heated with flame . . once cooled a little rubber tube grips arm to hold as in pictures.,

Now there is a lot of sanding and filing to fit heads, arms shins etc . .3D printing on larger objects I have found is OK e.g. I made a 25mm screw and nut . . but fit a 12mm thick arm inside a part of the armour with snapping??? Works in 123D they fit, they were made this way . .but after printing . .need sandpaper.

Good luck with the printing Tina stark is one of a kind . .and has got me hooked.

  • 3D model format: STL and ZIP

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