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Muscle Up Man

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Qualität der Kreation: 3,3/5 (6 Stimmen)
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Beschreibung des 3D-Modells

I saw one of these made of wood and decided to make a 3D printable version.

It is pretty large, I printed mine at 75% but you can probably go as small as 50%.

11/29 9:13 PM EST- Just updated with larger holes in the base and crank. Also fixed the broken left knee joint.

12/1 Added Muscle Up Man v3, increased the clearance between all parts to 0.5mm to make it easier to print at smaller scales


3D-Druckeinstellungen

Layer Height: 0.2

Supports: No

Infill: 10%

Informationen zur 3D-Druckerdatei

  • Format der Gestaltung 3D: STL Datei-Details Schließen
    • MUM Base.stl
    • MUM Crank.stl
    • Muscle Up Man v2 (0.3 mm clearance).stl
    • Muscle Up Man v3 (0.5mm clearance.stl

    Mehr zu den Formaten

  • Letzte Aktualisierung: 2019/12/02 10:23
  • Veröffentlichungsdatum: 2019/11/29 14:44

Lizenz

CC BY NC SA

Keywords

Creator

Hi, my name is Walt, I am a Retired United States Marine. Thanks for checking out my designs. If you want to see more of my designs and prints check out my Instagram @waltswoodworksand3dprinting, or watch my videos on YouTube @waltswoodworks3d.

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Kommentar hinzufügen

10 Kommentare

Thanks. I posted my make of the 90% scale print. I may try printing it one more time with some adjustments, but the printer is occupied for now. Thanks again for your help. We had another family over yesterday and their kids loved it too!

Glad to hear, it will loosen up after a day or so, mine was stiff mostly from the first layer squash on the back side. I love what you are doing with the math models by the way. I will defiantly be printing your models when my kids get to high school.

I've been printing the new version now and using a different filament that I think will handle the bridging better. It still has about an hour to go. My 90% one works okay, but is still stiff. The kids have been enjoying it.

I just started another one, this time on my Ender 3 using plain white Hatchbox PLA, I will let you know how it turns out in about 7 hours.

The only change is the holes in the base and crank are now 0.1mm wider, and if you look at the preview for the left knee, the old one the rod didnt connect.

The only other thing I can think of is that I printed at 0.1mm layer height. The key is your machine needs to bridge the rod that goes through the chest. If it is sagging too much in the center it is going to rub or even fuse.

Try reducing the temperature and extrusion multiplier in the bridge settings.

So, I was impatient and opened up the new model files. They look exactly the same in Simplify3D as the ones I had downloaded originally. I compared the cranks and the rod through the hole and it all looks the same. ???

Thanks for getting back to me so quickly! I went ahead and started the print at 90% to run overnight. It may work, but will be really big. I'll take a look at the new model tomorrow. I figured I could increase the crank and base slightly if needed, but the rod was another issue. I appreciate the help!

Check out the updated files. The left knee broke when I increased the tolerances and I didn't catch it when I uploaded it. Also I increased the size of the holes in the base and crank.

The one you see in the GIF was printed at 75%. I then made some changes, making the tolerance between the rods and the parts they go through larger increasing from 0.6mm to 1mm. The base plate and crank I made slightly tighter, by 0.05mm, because it was loose on mine. If yours isnt fitting try printing the base and crank slightly larger, say .1%. The problem with your joints is likely your bridging, especially for the one going through the shoulder. Try lowering the temperature.

Hi! I just printed the Muscle Up Man for my kids. I tried the 75% scale as you mentioned, but the tolerances between the parts are too tight. I could barely get the posts in the base and the crank does not go on all the way. The bar is getting twisted and does not turn well. My printer is usually quite accurate. I like the size, but I figure that the tolerances just became too narrow when printing at a smaller scale. Have you tried other sizes? Do you have any suggestions? I did try just moving all of the joints by hand some and that helped, but the twisted bar is now close to breaking. I'll probably try it again at a larger size. This is a fun model. Thanks for posting it. I will post a make if we get it working properly.


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