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36 Kommentare

If you're adding anything to the collection, it might be nice to have some side panels to print, like the flat top. The flat top panels provide some additional stiffness to the frames, making everything more stable. I suspect with the side (and maybe ones designed to make a corner from top to side) panels installed you could push the width of the frames up to 200 mm without a problem - not sure on the drawers, though I think that they would be ok based on what I've seen, might need to add a few more bottom layers to stiffen them up.

I have a LOT of prewired connectors and almost all of them need a 200 mm drawer to fit.

The feet are ok for the bottom, but it would also be nice to have a way to make the bottom flat as well.

So far I like the set, would love to see even more options.

Hey LR3DUk, recently purchased the drawers from you and absolutely love them i have a quick question regarding the double height draws as the single height have a resting point how does the double height fit in do i need to remove anything from the file or does the double height fit in still on the rest if you get what i mean its hard to explain it

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thank you for the clarification it probably says this in description i was just too excited and started printing without reading it all entirely xD i originally found your stuff on thingiverse and liked the free version but i had issues with layering and wanted to support regardless so jumped over to here and its absolutely flawless amazing design

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Hi. Thanks for the feedback, I'm glad you are enjoying the design.

There are different frame versions available (in every width), depending on which combination of drawers you want to use. A 4-drawer frame would hold 4 x single-height drawers, a 2-drawer frame would hold 2 x double-height drawers, and a three-drawer frame would hold 2 x single-height drawers and 1 x double-height drawer.

There is also now a full (4x) height bin-style drawer available in the 78mm width. This uses an 80mm 2-drawer frame (as it's not possible to create a 1-drawer frame without removing the centre joining profile).

I hope this helps. I would love to see a photo when you're finished if you would like to post a make.

I got a suggestion, maybe some kind of tool holder, just the basics like drivers, pen/pencil, hex keys, etc.

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Thanks for the suggestion. I'm working on something similar to this, so watch this space. :-)

Is there a way I could speak with you privately? I sent you a message on Thingiverse, but I don't know if you even still use that. I have a gmail with this same name.

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I've just replied on Thingiverse

First, congrats on a great job! Just love this design...
I managed to print a few pieces (they printed great), but Im having trouble with the "connections" I cant get the pieces to fit with each other... The drawers fit just fine...
I`m using an ender 3 and i tried to follow yours suggestions on the printing profile...

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Excellent. Glad it worked, thanks for the update :-)

That worked like a charm... And I didn`t even had to adjust the drawers... They all fit.

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Thanks for the positive feedback.

Are the connections you are having difficulty with the horizontal joiners, or the integrated profiles in the top/bottom of the frames?

If it is the joiners that you are finding too tight, there are 'looser fit' versions available for download. If you have already tried these and they are still too tight, adjusting the 'horizontal expansion' setting in the slicer to a slightly negative value should help (-0.1 would probably be a good starting point).

If it is the top/bottom profile of the frames that won't slide together easily, the first thing to check would be for any 'elephants foot' at the back of the frames, as this could stop them sliding together. If elephants foot is not the cause, it could be a slight printer calibration issue, and a potential workaround would be to use the same 'horizontal expansion' method mentioned above. One thing to be aware of though if doing this, is that the frames would then be very slightly narrower internally, so the drawers may need to be resized to reduce their width slightly for a good fit.

There is a test frame available (TestFitFrame.stl), which can be used to fine-tune slicer settings without having to print entire frames.

I hope this helps. Please let me know how you get on, or if you need any more assistance.

Thank you for your speedy reply, you are right, the Flash forge has propriety slicing software, for the most part is excellent. But sometimes!!!!
Have reprinted it on the Creality CR10 S and it came out well, the walls were a little THIN , is there and way to easily thicken the wall to make it more sturdy?
It looks like a fantastic system, almost like the pro version Dexion storage

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Great, glad that worked. The easiest way to increase strength in vase mode is to use a thicker line width. I use 0.8mm, which I find works well for this model and is about as far as I can push it using the 0.4mm nozzle on my Ender 3 V2. If course, with a larger nozzle it would be easy to go even thicker.

As can be seen by the image the Flash forge printer did not print the ramp as in your picture on CULTS it printed a verticle wall

Hi. From the photo, it looks like the model has been printed upside down, as the opening in your print is the face that should be on the print bed when printing (ie, the bottom layer(s).

The default orientation in the STL should be correct for printing (tilted back 45 degrees compared to how it will be used) but the slicer may have changed this automatically to the wrong orientation. If so, the model will need to be rotated so that it faces the right way up.

I hope this helps. Please let me know how you get on.

I'm looking for something mainly to store art supplies, like colored pencils (about 20cm long) - would you happen to know if they can fit in any of the drawers?

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I stretched them 180% X 125% Y 200% Z for a double height large drawer that nearly filled the bed of my ender 3, This is about the limit, the top is saggy and everything is kinda floppy (mainly the fram, the drawers are pretty good.. Less z height on the frame would probably fix this


The widest drawers are 158mm wide, but it should be possible to stretch the width a little in the slicer if needed. This would reduce overall strength, but should be ok for lightweight supplies, especially if printed in a material stronger than PLA (I normally use PLA+).

I use these for storing pens, pencils, and paintbrushes, but mine fit in the 158mm wide drawers, so must be a little shorter.

Hey, thanks for making the designs! I had printed your drawers with mostly success, and now I'm trying out to the paint holder but running into some problems. I don't have much experience with vase mode, so was wondering if you would have some advice.

What the print looks like:

My current settings using Cuda, printing on an Elegoo Neptune
Layer Height: 0.32 | Wall Thickness: 0.8 | Temp: 200 | Bed: 54 | Inner/Outer Wall Speed: 25

I calibrated my e-steps maybe a month ago, and I didn't think different slicing softer would cause this much of an issue, seeing as how I had success with the drawers. Do you have any recommendations for other settings to try? Maybe bad filament?


Thanks for your support in downloading my designs.

Your print/slicer settings appear to be very similar to those I used for all of the test prints, other than the nozzle temp which is a little lower (I increased to around 215 to allow for the extra flow). It may be worth increasing nozzle temp a little (but within the recommended limits for the filament). However, if this was the cause I would only expect to see some under-extrusion and nothing as bad as the print in your photo.

It may be worth loading a default profile in cura, then only changing layer height, line width, nozzle temp, and enabling Spiralize Outer Contour, as this would help to rule out a stray setting causing the issue.

Does the file seem to slice ok in the preview in Cura? Also, are you printing it at the default orientation in the STL (at a 45 dgree angle compared to the way it is used), as it will not print correctly otherwise?

If the slicer settings are ok, and it's being printed in the correct orientation, I suspect it could be the filament or a hardware/nozzle issue.

Please let me know how you get on.

I love the modular drawer system. I have one question. Do you have any plays to make frames with a halved height? So for any of the 2 drawer frames it would be 1 drawer.

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Thanks for the positive feedback.

Unfortunately a half-height frame won't work well with this design, as every frame needs at least the central joiner profile to ensure they can be connected horizontally to any other frame.

Hello, We are a company that produces filaments for 3D printers. I wanted to ask for a permission: we love your project and would like to buy it, 3D print using our filament and publish the photo after printing on our website.

We will thank you!


Thanks for your message and for the great feedback. I'm glad you like my design, and I would be more than happy for you to post a photo of it on your website after printing. If you could also post a link on your website back to the design on Cults3D so people can easily find it if they wish to, that would be much appreciated.

Best wishes


I just bought your design, but I noticed that everything is solid. I noticed the same issue with people on Thingiverse too. I would appreciate a fast fix.


Hi. The models are designed to be printed in vase mode ('spriralize outer contour' in Cura), so will appear solid if not using the correct slicer settings for this.

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Hey, thanks! Yeah actually, do you have tips for printing using prusa slicer?

thanks a lot! let me try that and I will come back with results :)


In PrusaSlicer, I start with the default settings for my printer (Ender 3 v2), then enable 'Spiral Vase' and select 3 bottom layers, 0.32mm layer height, and 0.8mm Extrusion Width. I also slow down print speed to compensate for the extra flow needed at the 0.8mm line/extrusion width. Depending on the filament I'm using, I usually also increase the nozzle temp a little too (but keep within the recommended limits for the filament).

This works well for me, but obviously may need to be changed depending on the 3D printer and filament etc.

I hope this helps. :-)

Thank you for continuing to update and maintain these! I've found them very helpful and reliable prints so far. Let me know if you'd like any photos of the prints for your marketing materials. Presently they're all black-on-black PETG, so not incredibly eye-catching, but very nicely printed.

Quick question. In the photo, I notice that you're mixing and matching the various sized frames. I've been able to create multiple similar sized frames and connect them. But it wasn't immediately obvious to me how to mix-and-match, such that they all line up properly w/ the correct connectors. Any tips / recommendations? Thanks!

Hi. I'm glad you are finding them useful. I intend to keep updating these and also have a few new designs in the works which should be ready to share soon. It would be great to see some photos of the prints if you wouldn't mind posting a make. I'm sure others would like to see them too as it helps to be able to visualise how they look printed.

How are you finding the strength of the units when printed in PETG? I've only printed these in PLA and PLA+ so far, and PLA+ seems quite a lot stronger.

The frames are designed to allow any frame to connect to any other frame both horizontally and vertically, so you should be able to mix-and-match them in any combination:

  • To achieve this horizontally, every frame is the same height and has a central joiner slot in the same position. Some frames have more joiner slots (up to three) depending on the number of drawers (as these also function as the drawer runners) but these are not essential, although they do add some strength if used. Where a frame sits next to another frame with a different number of joiner slots, there will be some empty half-gaps between them and I have uploaded optional half-joiners to fill these for a cleaner look if desired.

  • To allow the frames to be connected vertically to any other frame, they are all designed with a width that is a multiple of 40mm. This means that the 40mm frame has one top and bottom connector, the 80mm frame has two, the 120mm has three, and the 160mm has four. As such, as long as one row of frames has the same total width as the row of frames above/below it, they can be joined together, so any combination is possible.

I hope this makes sense.. I have probably made it sound more complicated than it is.

Oh, and thanks for the great feedback :-)

Hi, habe ich es richtig verstanden, das du mit einer 0,4mm Nozzle einen Layer mit 0,6-0,8 druckst? Danke

Hi. All of the drawers and frames in the photos were printed with a 0.4mm nozzle using a 0.8mm line width using an Ender 3 v2. I needed to reduce speed and increase nozzle temp a little (but within recomended levels) due to the increased flow.

Thanks for your quick answer.
The drawer !

We love your work. The fast printing is really helpful for making cabinets for small parts. We only wish that there would be an option for a front-to-back dimension approximately double the approximate 2.5 inches, particularly on the 4-drawer wide unit. Maybe the concern would be low strength with Vase mode printing, and we understand. We've considered "stretching" your design ourselves, but feel confident that with your expertise it would be better left to you, if you are willing.


Thanks for the positive feedback about the design.

The outer profile for the frames is consistent from front to back (other than a slight change near the front for the drawer stops), so it should be easy to increase the depth by scaling them in the z-axis in the slicer. Scaling the drawers can also be easily done, but it does slightly change the shape of the handle.

I can't say how much doubling the default depth would affect the strength and stability, as I haven't tested them at 120mm, however, a few people have commented previously about increasing the depth, including someone who increased it to 200mm (see comment below).

There are a few things than can be done to increase overall strength if needed, such as using full-length joiners in every connecting hole to maximise how rigid the frames are. Printing using in a stronger material can also make a significant difference. I printed some of the drawers in PLA+ (SUNLU brand) and these seem much stronger than those printed in standard PLA. I have recently uploaded some half-joiners too, which can be inserted in the side walls and any gaps where side-by-side frames have a different number of joiner profiles (for example where a 4-drawer and 2 drawer frame meet horizontally) and some 'flat top' attachments that would probably increase the strength at the top slightly.

I hope this helps, and it would be great to hear how you get on.

Best wishes

Is it possible to add a place to stick or place an sticker on each box ? I want to use that system to store lego and i need a place to put a sticker.
I know that your printing method is a challenge for that but if you have an idea, it could be a great improvment.
Many thanks

The best option currently would probably be to use some label tape or a sticker directly on the drawer front as they are mostly flat, so this should work well. I have been trying to work out how to add an integrated label holder in the front of the drawer, but it is difficult to do elegantly due to the single-height drawers only being 16.5mm tall and needing to keep the models compatible with vase mode printing. I am working on something that may be suitable for you though, so watch this space.

Hi Yannick,

Thanks for you message. Is it the frame or the drawers you need to use a sticker on?


suite : j'utilise une buse de 1.0 alors si vous me dites ou est le paramètre, faudra t-il le modifier pour autre chose que 0.6 ? merci.

thanks for your reply. I own an ender5+ so it would be the same parameters as an ender3 v2 I think. I would be appreciate (I think) by users that you put a screen copy of the cura parameters ... it will be more easy to understand where is this parameters or the other ....

When you 'll have get enough money with your project, is it possible to have an openscad or freecad file in order to understand how the creative process work ....

Hi. This design prints best with a 0.4mm nozzle, as larger nozzles can affect the shape of the connecting profiles (makes the corners rounder).

Some people have commented about successfully using a 0.8mm nozzle, but this required changing the horizontal expansion setting to a slightly negative value in order to increase tolerances (-0.1 or -0 2).

With a 0.4mm nozzle, the settings I use are 0.8mm line width, 0.32mm layer height, 25-30 mm outer-wall speed, and 'Spiralize Outer Contour' enabled (important). I find these settings work well on my Ender 3 v2. Depending on the filament type, I sometimes also need to increase the nozzle temp slightly (but within the manufacturer reccomeded limits) to allow for extra flow at the 0.8mm line width.

I hope this helps.

j'ai regardé dans mon cura si j'avais bien les paramètres requis, mais je ne trouve pas celui là : L'utilisation d'une largeur de trait de 0,6 à 0,8 mm permet d'augmenter la résistance des parois (0,8 mm de préférence).
Ou est l'utilisation de la largeur de trait svp ???

Merci pour le suivi

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Do you have suggestions for anchoring a set of drawers to something behind it so it's harder to tip over? I was planning to try putting a nail or screw through a flat-top or maybe the back of a frame, maybe having modified it to have a hole first.


There are feet available for dowload which should make them harder to tip over. These could also be scaled up a little in the z-axis to make them stick out further from the frame bottom if needed.

If you do want to fix a unit to something behind, I don't think screwing through the flat tops would be ideal, as they could slide off quite easily unless secured well to the frame tops with glue or similar.

Your idea of adding holes to the back of the frames for screws sounds good to me, although it would probably be best to increase the number of bottom layers to ensure the back is strong enough.

Hi i bought the file and am printing one of the drawers now its almost done, i followed your settings. Im new to FDM printing i usually just print with resin.
I want it to be abit more sturdier as i feel the 0.8 thickness wall isnt enough is there a way to easily make it double the thickness. i understand it would take double the time to print but yeah please help xD

Wow, it looks like you are making really good progress! thanks for sharing the images..it's strange seeing the design so deep. I would love to see some more photos when you are finishes as it's a really great use of the design.

https://imgur.com/a/JuBouq3 so i made the joiner as a solid wall about 4mmthick and it will go from bottom to top to act as a load bear wall, then ill print the top parts as a full print instead of vase as well so its got the strength, ill also do the same for the floor as well.
included a picture of them at 200mm depth. doing another 80mmx200 mm drawer now then ill do another frame, and overnight ill do the joining wall

Hi. Thanks for downloading my design.

0.8mm line width is as thick as I've tried with my 0.4mm nozzle, but it should be possible to print at a wider line width for the drawers if using a larger nozzle size.

I wouldn't recommend using a very large nozzle for the frames though as this will affect the shape of the connecting profile and how well they fit together. For info, the frames have been designed to be printed at a maximum wall thickness of 0.8mm as anything thicker would reduce the tolerances allowed for inserting the drawers.

Another option could be to print the drawers in non-vase mode with multiple walls. This can be achieved in most slicers by setting the infill and top layers to zero, then increasing the number of walls ('wall line count' in Cura) as needed. Non-vase mode would be much slower though.

Printing these in a stronger material can also make a significant difference. I printed some of the drawers in PLA+ (SUNLU brand) and these seem much stronger than those printed in standard PLA.

I would also make sure to use full-length joiners in every connecting hole to maximise how rigid the frames are. I have recently uploaded some half-joiners too, which can be inserted in the side walls and any gaps where side-by-side frames have a different number of joiner profiles (for example where a 4-drawer and 2 drawer frame meet horizontally) and some 'flat top' attachments that would probably increase the strength at the top slightly.

I should mention that I have not tried increasing the size of this design to 200mm, so I'm not sure how sturdy it would be at this size.

I hope this helps, and I would love to hear how you get on, or see a photo if you want to post a make.


i should note that i have stretched them to 200mm in depth so as i can put my paint rack above them so kinda need that extra sturdiness xD


habe die Datei erworben. Aber egal mit welcher Wandstärke ich drucke die Kästen passen nur mit Gewalt ineinander.
Was kann ich noch verändern damit es besser passt?

Ah Thank you. It is a very cool thing. And sorry for the many questions.

Yes, photo number 9 in the main listing shows the drawers fitted with dividers. They are just removeable inserts that you can place into the drawers.

Hast du vielleicht ein Foto wie man das benutzt?

That's great news. The dividers are optional.. just in case you want to split the drawers into 3 sections.

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Die Einstellung slightly negative value 0.1 hat super funktioniert. Ein Frage hätte ich noch wozu benötigt man die Divider?


Thanks for downloading the design.

There should be enough tolerance in the top and bottom connecting profiles to allow a good fit for most printers but there are a lot of things that could be affecting print accuracy, so without knowing your specific set up or settings, it's difficult to know what the issue could be.

The first thing I would check is for any 'elephants foot' at the back of the frames as this could affect how well they fit together.

If there is no ' elephants foot', then print/slicer settings would be the next thing I would check. I find that using a 0.8mm line width (with a 0.4mm nozzle), an outer wall print speed of 25-30mm/s and a layer height of 0.32mm works well for me. This is on my Ender 3 v2, so settings may need to be tweaked for different 3D printers. Slower print speeds and smaller layer heights should improve the accuracy of the print and how well the frames fit together.

If all else fails, you could try setting the horizontal expansion setting to a slightly negative value (such as 0.1 or 0.2), as this will increase the tolerances around the outer perimeter profile.

I hope this helps. Please let me know how you get on.

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